Samela Harris - The Advertiser 27 October 04

It has always looked so handsome with its broad, summery window opening on to Leigh St, the lovely old ceiling fans, the classic plaster mouldings on the ceiling, the pristine tables laid with sparkling glasses, the glossy wood.

And then there is the serene outdoor setting, all leafy and sheltered at the side, paved brick, bluestone walls, large pot plants and an interesting stream of bourgeois women using the private entrance to the Lyceum Club.

Eighteen Leigh St has had many incarnations but now as Cos Bar & Restaurant, it seems comfortably set to enjoy the revival of lovely Leigh St.

Suitably for its name, it has caesar salads as one of the house specials.

Oysters is another. Not a bad way to indulge on a summer's day.

Cos's caesars are different.

They come on a flat plate and, at first, they look a bit thin-on, since the lettuce is not a mountain.

This turns out to be the secret. One does not have to fight it, as one does for many caesars. And, the lettuce is top quality, crisp and cut to the right size. On top is a perfectly poached egg.

Then there are fresh bread croutons, just lovely. And lashings of bacon, optional anchovy, enough but not too much fresh, shaved parmesan and a rich, beautifully balanced dressing with a hint of garlic. Again, the dressing is restrained, so one feels at the end of the meal that one has no cause for guilt.

The classic caesar is $14.90 and the prosciutto or chicken are $16.90.

The Advertiser, 4/2/04, Tony Baker

Food & Wine,'unassumingly chic...The menu at first sight seems almost whimsical, concentrating on steaks and yes, caeser salads...The winelist is similarly offbeat and interesting...it all worked well'