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Samela Harris - The Advertiser 27 October 04
It has always looked so handsome with its broad, summery window
opening on to Leigh St, the lovely old ceiling fans, the classic
plaster mouldings on the ceiling, the pristine tables laid
with sparkling glasses, the glossy wood.
And then there is the serene outdoor setting, all leafy and
sheltered at the side, paved brick, bluestone walls, large
pot plants and an interesting stream of bourgeois women using
the private entrance to the Lyceum Club.
Eighteen Leigh St has had many incarnations but now as Cos
Bar & Restaurant, it seems comfortably set to enjoy the
revival of lovely Leigh St.
Suitably for its name, it has caesar salads as one of the
house specials.
Oysters is another. Not a bad way to indulge on a summer's
day.
Cos's caesars are different.
They come on a flat plate and, at first, they look a bit
thin-on, since the lettuce is not a mountain.
This turns out to be the secret. One does not have to fight
it, as one does for many caesars. And, the lettuce is top
quality, crisp and cut to the right size. On top is a perfectly
poached egg.
Then there are fresh bread croutons, just lovely. And lashings
of bacon, optional anchovy, enough but not too much fresh,
shaved parmesan and a rich, beautifully balanced dressing
with a hint of garlic. Again, the dressing is restrained,
so one feels at the end of the meal that one has no cause
for guilt.
The classic caesar is $14.90 and the prosciutto or chicken
are $16.90.
The Advertiser, 4/2/04, Tony Baker
Food & Wine,'unassumingly chic...The menu at first
sight seems almost whimsical, concentrating on steaks and
yes, caeser salads...The winelist is similarly offbeat and
interesting...it all worked well'
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